SURF THERAPY

It could be argued that whatever your hobby, indulging in one’s passion offers therapeutic benefits and that I’m sure is true, but it could also be argued that surfing provides greater benefits than other pastimes. Controversial yes, and this is a biased opinion but if you are reading this then you too are probably already hooked on surfing and on some level realise that it is more than a hobby, more than a fun past time and more than just a good bit of exercise.

As the wise-before-his-years surf shop grom on Point Break so accurately put it, “Surfing’s the source. It will change your life….” and if it hasn’t already, it WILL change your life.

I have other hobbies and other interests but I don’t feel any of them define me or have any way near as much influence or benefit on my sense of wellbeing and mental health as surfing does.

Having started riding waves at the age of ten, not even the lack of wetsuit was enough to diminish the thrill or kerb the enthusiasm at that time, even in the middle of winter. Surf sessions were somewhat shorter because of the lack of neoprene but what we lacked in equipment, we made up for in enthusiasm.

Over the years that enthusiasm remained and grew into somewhat of an obsession but there were a few years that university and general life took over. Surfing occupied a backstage position at that point and it just didn’t feel right.

A few years later, after getting back into it ‘regularly’….well, as regularly as possible when living in the UK, I realised that throughout all the negative stuff life throws, surfing remained a constant positive.

It doesn’t matter whether we are busting airs on a sick little inside section or wobbling our way towards the beach on some mush, surfing provides an escape.

Surfing provides head space, incredible fun and a decent source of exercise.

Surfing provides therapy both physically and mentally and a connection with nature…….

Surfing, just, provides.